Monday 22 September 2008

Lechlade to Cricklade

Ray, Natasha and myself walked the eleven-mile, twenty-seventh stage of the Thames walk on September 20th. Apart from a couple of short summer strolls at Gravesend and at Chiswick, it was the first Thames walk for more than five months.
Having missed the only bus for hours at Swindon we took a taxi to the start of the walk at Halfpenny Bridge at Lechlade.
For a few hundred metres upstream of the bridge there were a few boats moored, but from then on none at all. Lechlade is the limit of navigation for narrowboats. It is only possible to get further upstream by canoe.
Saxon sculpture of the virgin Mary inside Inglesham church
Clock on barn at Castle Eaton
Red marshy plants in meadows next to the river between Castle Eaton and Cricklade. In several places it was obvious that the path had until very recently been under water. The fields around here smelt like a cross between wet dog and seaweed. In places the Thames looks little more than a sluggish drainage ditch or a small stream but then for short stretches it appears to regain a faint echo of its status as a grand river.
Swans passing by the garden at the back of the Red Lion at Castle Eaton.

Monday 14 April 2008

Tadpole to Lechlade

This was the twenty sixth Thames walk and the last of 12 walks in the Oxfordshire section of the river. Lechlade, where the walk finished (shown in the photograph on the right) is in Gloucestershire. This was also the first walk not to be completely reliant on public transport. Maggot drove myself and Ray up to Tadpole to begin the walk and we caught a taxi back to the car at the end of the walk. This was fantastic because it meant we didn't need to find a way around Marriage Hill where we had such difficulties two weeks ago. Also by starting on the river, rather than at a bus stop in villages to the south of the river along the main road the distance to be walked was shortened a little, although we did have to walk the section from Tadpole Bridge to Rushey Lock for a second time. Time pressure was also taken off the end of the walk and we could walk until the sun set, rather than have to rush to catch the last bus from Lechlade.
It was another day of unsettled weather and there was a heavy shower of rain and hail as we passed through Abingdon by car. But by the time we started the walk the sun was out. Although heavy rain clouds continued to pass overhead from time to time these dull period were interspersed with dazzling sunshine that lit up the scenery more brilliantly than if there had been no clouds at all. Pollarded willow casts an all-round shadow in the midday sun.
Cow drinking in the river
"Come on and have a go if you think you're hard enough" - for the second walk running aggressive looking bullocks threatened to drive us into the river.
Fluffy white clouds over the river.
The Swan at Radcot Bridge where we had lunch and drinks.
Radcot Bridge, which was built in 1200, and is the oldest surviving bridge across the Thames. It is the site of the Battle of Radcot Bridge in 1387 between Henry IV and forces loyal to Richard II. This battle was one of the precursors to the Wars of the Roses in 15th century. At the top of the bridge is a niche where a cross used to be fixed. Baptisms of children were performed on the bridge as late as the early 20th century.
The river above Grafton Lock
Kelmscott Manor which was rented by the English Pre-Raphaelites, William Morris and Gabriel Rosetti, as a summer retreat. It was here that Rosetti had a long-lasting affair with William Morris' wife Jane. The Kelmscott Press was founded by William Morris in Hammersmith in 1891.
Spring flowers on the Thames path.
Birches and reeds.
There was a succession of old wartime pill boxes along the path. It is difficult to imagine what military scenario they could have been placed there for.
Yet more wonderful clouds..
Immediately upstream from Buscott Weir was a remarkable series of meanders.
The Trout at St. John's Bridge was the third pub we had passed since Oxford by that name. We had also passed the site of another pub which used to be called the Trout at Old Man's Bridge.
Close up of the statue of Old Father Thames at St John's Lock. Old Father Thames is the god of the river. His origins are unknown and even Peter Ackroyd can only speculate that he "bears a striking resemblance to the tutelary gods of the Nile and Tiber". With the Isis being the Thames goddess, the river can be said to have both male and female aspects. The statue itself was sculpted by Rafaelle Monti for the Great Exhibition of 1851 at the Crystal Palace out of a block of concrete made with Portland cement. It survived the fire that destroyed the Crystal Palace in 1936 and was acquired by the Thames Conservancy in 1958 for erection at the Head of the Thames at Trewsbury Mead where it stood until 1974 when it was moved to its current location.
Water reflections at St John's Lock.
It was sunset by the time we approached Lecklade, its spire visible from many miles away.
Walker's shadows.
The Halfpenny Bridge at Lechlade with tollhouse attached. The toll was actually abolished in 1839 after villagers refused to continue to pay it.

Wednesday 2 April 2008

Newbridge to Rushey Lock

This was the hardest and longest walk so far, nearly twelve and half miles into a strong headwind. The picture above is of the Chimney Marshes which is a nature reserve rich in rare wild flowers and wading birds. We were unlucky on this walk in that we arrived at The Trout at Tadpole at three minutes after two O clock when they stopped serving food. So nought out of ten for the Trout for stopping serving food so early and for refusing to be at all flexible even though they were still serving puddings to people after we arrived. The last few miles of the walk were all the harder for this, especially the ascent of the north face of Marriage Hill. We were being heavily rained upon and having to dig our fingers into bare earth and drag ourselves up the escarpment clinging onto branches. After all that we found ourselves having to walk along a B-road - after another footpath had been fenced off - and deal with incredibly aggressive drivers who tried to force us off the road into the roadside ditch. To cap this we were unable get food at Oxford train station and the so-called fast train crawled along the slow track with a window close to the only available seats jammed open.

After leaving Newbridge we passed to the north of Harrowdown Hill which was the place where the body of Dr David Kelly was found in 2003. His evidence had raised questions about Saddam Hussein's possession of Weapons of Mass Destruction - the official justification for the UK government's decision to invade Iraq. There is some speculation that he was murdered and forensic experts have thrown doubt on the official verdict of suicide. Radiohead's Thom Yorke wrote what he described as the angriest song he had written in his life about Harrowdown Hill. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=AS37ZSYOwTA.

Radiohead seem to have an association with hills next the river Thames. They also filmed the video to one of their songs on Wittenham Clumps which we climbed on the Wallingford to Dorchester walk.

Natasha

A 'domino stack' of tyres with pollarded willows in the background at Thame-Side Farm where the Isis takes a sharp turn to the north

Swan resting in the reed beds near Chimney Meadow.

Tenfoot Bridge Tadpole Bridge built in 1789 the same year as the French Revolution.

Monday 24 March 2008

Swinford Bridge to Newbridge

This was the remotest section of the Thames we had walked so far and it was a struggle to work out how to do this using only public transport. But in the event rural buses turned up when they were supposed to and everything went smoothly. The weather on Easter Saturday was completely bonkers. When we started the walk there was a heavy blanket of cloud and none of us could imagine there being much sun at all during the day...But there was a lot of sun as well as a couple of hailstorms; three or four snow showers and two or three blizzards. There is a film of one of these blizzards on the blog this week. There was also a lot of flooding along the path and we had to jump over a fence to bypass an inundated kissing gate and navigate tortuous zig zags through watery fields. At a couple of points including one just south of Bablock Hythe (below) the path became a narrow strip between the river and flooded fields.
The walk began under heavy cloud
Ray and Natasha
The weather was real feature of this walk with threatening skies overhead and strong squalls of wind blowing whirlpools into the surface of the water.
A painterly light cast on the waters downstream from Pinkhill weir
After an hour's walking the sun burst through the clouds and patches of blue sky appeared
Ray and Raja
Chopped wood in a field near Stanton Harcourt. Stanton Harcourt is the site of archeological digs that showed for the first time that elephants and mammoths coexisted in the same area during warm interglacial periods.
Sheep in flooded field near Bablock Hythe
Chalet village near Bablock Hythe
Raja and Natasha at the Ferryman's Inn at Bablock Hythe where we had lunch. A chain mechanism pulled a flat-bottomed ferry across the river at this point operated until the 1950s by a Polish refugee ferryman called John.
Bablock Hythe ferry in the 1950s
Blizzard outside the Ferryman Inn at Bablock Hythe
Ten minutes after the blizzard the sun returned
Windmill, pylon and street sign
Makeshift flood level marker from Summer 2007
Hart's Weir footbridge
Natasha at the footbridge
Tank trap near Hart's Weir footbridge. This was the second tank trap we had seen along the Thames the first one being near Shepperton. This type of Toblerone-shaped tank traps were also known as Dragon's Teeth.
Newbridge is misleadingly named. Built in 1250 it is actually one of the oldest bridges on the Thames. There are two pubs on either side of the river here The Rose Revived and The Maybush.
The Windrush, a poetically-named 35 mile-long Cotswolds river, flows into the Thames at Newbridge
No useful bus passes Newbridge so we walked south on bridleways across the fields for a couple of miles to Southmoor to pick up a bus on the main Faringdon to Oxford road
Once over the ridge we were out of the main Thames valley and into the Vale of the White Horse. Here is the first white horse we saw.

Toby's evening shadow walking across the fields into the Vale of the White Horse