Sunday 28 October 2007

Richmond to Kingston upon Thames (via Eel Pie Island)

There is a jaded palladian feel to the architecture along the river upstream of Richmond. I also found Eel Pie Island exuding a certain autumnal melancoly. The island has a Bohemian playing host to The Who, The Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd, Led Zepplin, Eric Clapton, Rod Steward and Black Sabbath between 1962 and 1971 when the Eel Pie Island Hotel burned down in a 'mysterious' fire. Trevor Baylis the inventor of the clockwork radio still lives on the island. An artists colony also remains on the island but it has a very excluding and privatised feel to it and there is the reek of serious property developer's money in the air (Above) Graffitied fresco in cave underneath the A307 the Richmond to Kingston road which runs alongside the riverside for short distance south of Richmond. Apart from a short section of river between Vauxhall Bridge and Chelsea Bridge. This was the first time we had ventured onto north bank of the river although here, where the river flows from south to north, the banks of the river are more usefully described as Middlesex and Surrey banks. While the Surrey bank is more rural and has a path which follows the river bank more faithfully, I did want to visit Eel Pie Island and the only way of getting to the island is by footbridge from Twickenham on the Middlesex bank. Apart from a footbridge at Teddington Lock there are no real bridges across the river between Richmond and Kingston. Luckily we were able to cross the river by ferry at Ham House.
Alice and Marchain on the Ham House to Marble Hill House ferry.

Pigeons on fenceposts

Raja had trouble with the electricians working on her flat

Rusty mushrooms opposite Eel Pie Island

The water nymphs in York House in Twickenham opposite Eel Pie Island came from the studios of early 19th century Italian sculptor Orazio Andreoni. The were brought to England by the mining magnate Whitaker Wright who was convicted of fraud in the High Court in 1904 and immediately committed suicide by swallowing cyanide. The statues were then bought and installed in York House by the Indian industrialist Ratan Tata the last private owner of York House. Ratan Tata was returning from India when his boat was torpedoed in the Mediterranean in 1917. He died the following year and the statues were donated to Richmond Council.

Plunging water nymph reflected in the water

Reflection turned upside down

Gas cylinders at Eel Pie Island Slipways

Faces in the leaves, Eel Pie Island

Sunday 21 October 2007

Hammersmith to Richmond

Morning light in the water at Hammersmith Bridge.
Hammersmith to Richmond was the longest walk so far panning out at just under seven miles. There was a beautiful light over the river when we (Raja, myself and Ray) arrived at Hammersmith Bridge. The light on the water reminded me of my favourite London You Tube film Morning City from 1956 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3EuJT_yRSQ

Rowers come to a halt as a man and a dog watch

Reading the book of river myths

Dis-used reservoir (Barnes)

Thames by Mottlake

Barnes railway bridge

Raja discovered the sound park in North Sheen spotting what looked like satellite dishes in a garden in front of a new housing estate. The two dishes were facing each other exactly and could transmit a faint whisper 30 metres away to the other side of the garden. Two trumpet-nozzled water-pump like features that looked vaguely as though they belong in the Teletubbies demonstrated a more curvey way of transmitting voices.

Raymoon Moon aged 60 years and one day

Raja in North Sheen sound park

Tunnel at Kew railway bridge

Rope hangs from bridge by Strand on the Green

Toll-keepers cottage at Kew

River sculpture takes up the theory that the name Kew derives from the word key describing the shape of the Thames' meanders. But the river is not particularly key-shaped at Kew. Barnes is sited at a more 'pinched' meander.

Cage in gardens by Kew Palace

Tumbled down tree on Brentford Ait (island). Ait is a name for a whole series of long and very thin islands in the river in this stretch. Others are called Lot's Ait, Isleworth Ait and Oliver's Ait.

River Brent flowing into the Thames at Brentford

Isleworth Ait

Syon House where Henry VIII's fifth wife Catherine Howard was imprisoned before her execuction at the Tower of London. Henry VIII's body was brought here in 1547 on its way to burial at Windsor. During the night the coffin broke open and the household dogs were found the next day chewing over his bones. This was the fulfillment of a curse which had been put on Henry when he forcefully acquired Syon house. It had previously been a monastery.

Raja said that some parts of the river beaches reminded her of the Nile in Sudan

Most of Isleworth church was set on fire by arsonists in 1943. The church now consists of a fourteenth century tower and a nave built in 1970. Heron in the channel seperating Richmond Old Deer Park from the river Twickenham Bridge's bronze-plated hinges make it earthquake-proof Richmond Bridge (built in 1777)

Tuesday 16 October 2007

Chelsea Bridge to Hammersmith

Raja, myself and Ray walked down to the river Thames from Victoria tube station where we met up with Alexandra whom I had met during the summer on a three day NLP course in Primrose Hill. Walking along through Battersea Park on the river front we came to the Buddhist peace pagoda. Permission to build the pagoda was granted to a Japanese Nichiren sect in 1985 and was the last legistlative act of the GLC before it was abolished by the Thatcher government. The Chinese characters running from top to bottom above the Buddha figure's head read Namu miao fa lien hua ching the title of the Lotus Sutra. Lots Power station in Fulham. It was built as a coal-fired station in 1905 to power the District line and at 44MW it was claimed at the time to be the world's most powerful generating station. It was later converted to running on oil and then again to gas before closing in 2002. The very polluted river Wandle flows into the Thames at Wandsworth. It is said to be the fatest flowing tributary of the Thames but its mouth is dirty covered in tyres and shopping trolleys.
Drinks at the Cats Back in Putney
Toby on the approach to Putney Bridge
Riverside trees at Hammersmith
Hammersmith Bridge

Tuesday 9 October 2007

Tower Bridge to Chelsea Bridge

A Tower Bridge first Neither Raja nor myself (both having lived in London for many years) had ever seen Tower Bridge raised. While Natasha (from southern Ukraine) whom I had met on an Urban 75 walk in Bloomsbury on Friday had. We were just talking about this at the beginning of our walk upstream from Tower Bridge when we noticed a sailing ship approaching the bridge. That mast is never going to get under the road....

Natasha and Raja

Southbank stilllife 1#
Faceless
Southbank stilllife 2#
Spindle-legged elephant
Natasha by MI6 building, Vauxhall
The new towers at Vauxhall
Battersea Power Station from Pimlico

Tuesday 2 October 2007

Greenwich to Tower Bridge

Sunday September 30, Stefania, Ray, Raja and myself caught the 188 bus from Russell Square to begin the second of the Thames walks to the Source.
'The Thames' an abandoned pub in Deptford on the Thames path.
We began the walk from Greenwich where the walk left off last week
Just outside Greenwich we crossed Deptford Creek which is the mouth of the river Ravensbourne. Elizabeth I knighted the adventurer Sir Francis Drake on board his ship The Golden Hind in 1581. One of the first Royal Naval Dockyards was founded here by Henry VII in 1513. It closed in 1869. Deptford was also the place where several doomed expeditions to find a shortcut to India set off from. Hugh Willoughby and Richard Chancellor set off on a quest in 1553 to find the 'Northeast Passage to India around the northern coast of Russia. They got as far as the White Sea on the eastern side of Finland. Most of the crew froze to death although Richard Chancellor trudged overland to Moscow to establish trade with the court of Ivan the Terrible. Twenty years later Martin Frobisher ventured on another series of futile journeys in an effort to find a route to India around the northern coast of Canada the so-called 'Northwest Passage' His expedition explored Baffin Island, Frobisher Bay and the Hudson Straits. Deptford was also the home of the famous English diarist John Evelyn between 1620 and 1706. The Russian Czar Peter the Great stayed in his house Sayes Court for many months in the year 1698.
Metal statue of Peter the Great on the riverside at Deptford
In Deptford Peter developed a fondness for hot brandy spiced with pepper. While drunk on this cocktail he liked to be pushed around in a wheelbarrow by his courtiers. John Evelyn was angered when Peter the Great's wheelbarrow destroyed his favourite holly hedge. Raja, Ray and Stefania with Peter the Great
But Peter's real interest in Deptford was to carry out a piece of early industrial espionage ie to learn about English expertise in navigation and boat building. See detail in picture below.
Deep mud warning in Twinkle Park, Deptford
Is this the way back to the riverside path?
Another dead end, steps down to an isolated beach
Head sculptures on Deptford residential block

Across the river the towers of Canary Wharf on the Isle of Dogs

Stefania and Ray at the Wibbly Wobbly boat pub in Greenland Dock, Rotherhithe

The docks at Rotherhithe began with the construction of the Howland wet dock in 1696 which later developed into the Surrey Commercial Docks which finally closed in the 1970s. The docks had a strong connection with Scandinavia and the Baltic and used to handle cargo such as grain, timber and whale blubber. There is still a Norwegian, a Finnish and a Swedish church in Rotherhithe. Sulphur from Palermo in Sicily, Ostrich feathers from Siberia and timber from Canada was also unloaded in these docks.

Stefania finds the donkey too high..
...before finding the pigs

Family of goats at Surrey Quays

Sculpture by Surrey Quays City Farm 1#

Sculpture at Surrey Quays City Farm 2#

Centipede climbs the beam

Sunflower Alley, Rotherhithe

Old Rotherhithe

Rotherhithe Wharves and the Mayflower

A Pilgrim Father, a small boy and a bull terrier. The Pilgrim Fathers set sail for the New World from Rotherhithe in 1620.

Raja and Bermondsey social reformer Dr Alfred Salter MP at Cherry Garden Pier in Bermondsey. He was well known local campaigner against poverty, poor health and slum housing in the area in the early 20th century

The sculpture is a representation of his dream and he is looking at his daughter before she died of scarlet fever at the age of nine and also his beloved cat.

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